This article is noteworthy because unlike other NRO articles on popular culture which have always been clunky, unoriginal, boring, and wrong, this one is only unoriginal.
Writing an article about the demise of the martini, and not getting sidetracked by the emergence of Vodka, is an exercise in focus and discipline. I have tried to write the same article, but I always end up losing my cool, the text spiraling out of control. And I hardly drink the things.
If I were going to nitpick though, I would argue that most of the classic cocktails had to be sweeter because the alcohol was so damn teriible, what with prohibition and antique technology. I would also add, that a whisper of Vermouth in a glass of Gin, is a better ratio than any amount of Vermouth in a glass of vodka. Drinking vodka out of a large glass with any amount of vermouth is sheer mummery.
See. Get me started on Martinis and I end up on Vodka, the great cocktail bugbear.
All this reminds me that I haven't been writing about bars much lately, mainly because I haven't been drinking much. Rathbuns Steak has a nice looking one, but I must say I had a disapointing experience drinking there. It all started when I asked for a Sazerac....
They didn't know how to make one, so they asked me for the ingredients. I foolishly tried to comply. The fustration was evident on the faces of both bartenders. The first bartender interupted my explanation, exclaiming "Well we don't have any anise seasoned glasses!". I tried to explain what I meant but she handed me off to the other bartender, who got that far-away, 'I can't believe this guy is wasting my time' look on his face when I tried to again to explain. Pissed me off. They had a full dinner crowd, but the load on the bar was otherwise moderate. I felt vinidicated when the GM, to whom I was previously indebted, said that he knew of the drink, and more on it's heels when a Server overheard and chimed in with "The Sazerac! the first cocktail!".
I will continue to ask for Sazeracs in Steak Houses, because that is where they most hit the spot. Sometimes they surprise you. The rewards continue to outweigh the risk. Now get off my lawn.
Bisset's in Athens, and that new Cajun Restaurant opened by the Agave people, both serve shaken ones. From what I understand, that'll upset the purists, but they sure go down easy. [LSU football jokes here]
I am nw reminded of the first time returned to Athens after graduation and went to Boars Head mid-afternoon to see Pat, who had taken over there after leaving the Roadhouse. I asked him for a martini, and he immediatly grabbed some kid who was washing glasses, and taught him how to make one. It was one of the best martini's ever. More so because it was a Found martini. Like a truffle in pile of turd. I mean, that particular pile of turd has served 2 Gin Martinis, and 6,123,123 jager bombs. (Wait, did I just offend a bunch of race baiting, red-pant-wearing golden-tee champions?)
I am probbably way behind the curve on these guys, since I had been reading about them for years, but oh well. It's new to me! ;







